Laurels for Local Heroes

The ScotsmanMarch 02, 2005

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Summary


A CRASH of pallets can be heard coming from behind the kitchen. Sitting in another room, several yards away and out of sight, Shirley Spear can identify the sound without even blinking. "Scallops," she explains - briefly interrupting a monologue on the importance of cooking with fresh Scottish produce.

At The Three Chimneys - the acclaimed Skye restaurant she runs with husband Eddie - as much as possible is sourced locally. The scallops are fished from the waters of Loch Dunvegan, overlooked by the kitchen. Very impressive for guests and food critics, but nerve- racking for the Spears, who are relying on the scallops to feed two large group bookings whose arrival is imminent.

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Extract


Laurels for Local Heroes

Shirley's relief at their eventual arrival is palpable. "You can't get any fresher than that, but of course using very local suppliers means you can't always predict when things will arrive. It can literally depend on the weather."

This sort of daily worry is why the Spears are stepping back from their high-profile roles as they prepare to celebrate the 20th anniversary of their restaurant at Colbost - a huge decision for a couple whose reputation has placed The Three Ch...

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